Citizens of Humanity partners with Pili and Orta to launch Eco-Indigo, a bio-based dye for its Spring 2025 collections, setting a new standard in sustainable denim.
Citizens of Humanity Group has launched Eco-Indigo, a bio-based dye developed in partnership with French biochemicals pioneer Pili and Turkish denim manufacturer Orta. This innovation, designed to reduce carbon emissions and water usage, debuts in the Spring 2025 collections of Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE.
“Our partnership with Pili represents a pivotal moment in our industry’s journey towards a more regenerative future,” Amy Williams, CEO of Citizens of Humanity Group, said in a statement. “As textile manufacturing continues to consume vast amounts of dyes annually, it’s imperative that we embrace innovative solutions to mitigate its environmental impact. Pili’s technology addresses this challenge head-on and offers high-performance denim color ranges.”
Denim — a wardrobe staple beloved for its versatility and timeless appeal — has long been marred by its substantial environmental footprint. Traditional production methods, particularly in cotton growing and dyeing, require vast amounts of water and chemicals, contributing heavily to pollution and resource depletion. Producing just one pair of jeans can consume between 2,000 and 5,000 liters of water, while traditional petroleum-based dyes contribute to significant chemical waste and water pollution. The fashion industry accounts for as much as ten percent of global greenhouse gas emissions. With two million tons of dyes used annually in textile production, the need for sustainable alternatives has never been more pressing. Eco-Indigo aims to tackle these challenges by offering a cleaner, bio-based solution.
Pili’s breakthrough involves using industrial fermentation combined with green chemistry to create bio-based indigo, reducing reliance on fossil fuels and harmful chemicals. Pili has produced three tons of bio-based indigo, making it the first scalable, eco-friendly dye alternative in the market. Unlike traditional indigo, which can lead to chemical waste and excessive water use, Pili’s method cuts carbon emissions by 50 percent while maintaining the long-lasting color consumers expect. A 2024 McKinsey report revealed that 60 percent of fashion consumers prioritize a brand’s sustainability initiatives when making purchases.
“With our pioneering bio indigo dye, we are redefining the standards of sustainability in the denim industry,” noted Jeremie Blache, CEO of Pili. “By combining biotechnology and green chemistry principles, we are delivering a high-performance solution that meets the demands of both brands and consumers for circularity, sustainability, and safety.”
Eco-Indigo works with existing dyeing infrastructure. Unlike many sustainable innovations that require costly modifications to production lines, Eco-Indigo can be seamlessly integrated into current processes, ensuring minimal disruption and cost neutrality. As production scales up, the cost gap between bio-based and conventional petroleum-derived dyes is expected to narrow, encouraging broader industry adoption.
This initiative complements Citizens of Humanity’s ongoing efforts to reduce its environmental impact. Since 2022, the company has sourced nearly four million pounds of regenerative cotton through its Regenerative Cotton Program. This initiative not only lessens the ecological burden of cotton farming but also supports farmers by promoting sustainable agricultural practices. By marrying regenerative cotton with bio-based dyes, Citizens of Humanity is crafting a holistic approach to circular fashion.
Compared to other industry leaders such as Levi’s and Patagonia, Citizens of Humanity’s approach is notably comprehensive. Levi’s Water<Less technology focuses on reducing water usage, while Patagonia emphasizes recycled materials. However, Citizens’ dual focus on regenerative agriculture and innovative dyeing technologies positions it as a front-runner in sustainable luxury fashion.
The exclusive launch of Eco-Indigo-dyed styles from Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE on Net-A-Porter underscores the brands’ dedication to eco-conscious luxury. The collections showcase a diverse range of styles, from AGOLDE’s contemporary designs to Citizens of Humanity’s classic denim pieces, offering consumers fashion-forward choices without compromising on sustainability. Broader availability will follow on the brands’ e-commerce platforms and at global retail partners by mid-January.
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