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Curly and textured hair lifts differently than straight hair, and colorists say the difference between keeping the curl and losing it when bleaching comes down to a handful of steps most box kits skip.
Bleached ringlets have been impossible to miss this year, floating across social feeds and red carpets in shades that stretch from platinum to buttery blonde, and it is tempting to reach for a box kit and chase the look without paying salon prices. Curly and textured hair does not lift the way straight hair does, though, and colorists warn that skipping a few key steps can cost far more than the bleach itself.
“The downside is that the process can affect the natural curl pattern by making it frizzier,” said Issie Churcher, creative director at STIL Salon, in an interview with Woman & Home. “In some cases, it can even knock out the curl, making it straighter, and appear lifeless and limp.”
Curly and coiled strands start out at a structural disadvantage. “The thickness of curly, coily hair is irregular and decreases from the scalp outward,” which interferes with how oil moves down each strand. That same unevenness leaves weak points along the shaft that crack and snap more easily once the hair dries out, which is the state bleach leaves it in.
“The big questions you have to ask yourself are, how hydrated is my hair?” said Guy Tang, the hair color expert told Harper’s Bazaar. “I recommend reading the manufacturer directions on the back of the bottle.”
Fine, delicate curls need the most attention. “Personally, I prefer not to work with bleach on very fine, delicate hair,” Churcher said. “The long-term effects of bleaching on this hair type often result in damage, loss of curl structure, and worst case scenario, breakage.” Anyone with color already on their curls needs to build in recovery time rather than compounding it. “As with straight hair, any bleaching process should be avoided within a 4-5 week window of the previous processing,” she said.
How to protect curl pattern once the bleach comes out
The scalp needs the same caution as the strands. “Bleach can be incredibly damaging to your scalp health,” said Shvonne Perkins, a master colorist at Madison Reed, told Harper’s. “A full head of bleach is such a complicated and unique process. Hair should almost always be somewhat clean and dry,” she added, since natural oils built up between washes help shield the scalp during processing.
“Bleaching the hair is a very in-depth process,” said Ryan Pearl, a celebrity colorist, in the same interview. “Hair care is key, both pre and post color.”
Once the color is out, curls need reinforcement, not more chemical treatment. Churcher recommends a conditioning treatment immediately after coloring, then a lighter hand at home. “Use a shampoo for thirsty hair, and avoid too much protein in your products,” she said, since curls that already run porous can turn brittle under too much of it.
Handled with that kind of care, bleach does not have to fight the curl at all. “When bleaching curly hair, it can be easier to create more contrast and dimension without it looking stripy or too bold,” Churcher said, “thanks to the natural movement and texture of the hair.”
What to Shop for an At-Home Bleach Job
A handful of products can carry curls through the process the experts describe above, starting with the lightener itself and ending with the moisture it takes to bounce back from it.
Göt2b Bleach It Ultra Platinum — Best for Lifting Curls at Home
This gel-based kit is built to lighten hair “up to 8 or 9 levels depending on things like your starting hair color, hair texture and/or hair condition,” according to göt2b, and it comes with an anti-brass purple mask included for toning right after processing.
Bleach London Silver Color-Toning & Nourishing Shampoo — Best for Keeping Curls Cool-Toned
Once curls have lifted, this ash-pigmented shampoo is designed to neutralize brassy yellow tones between salon visits.
Olaplex N°.3PLUS Complete Repair Treatment — Best for Rebuilding Strength Before and After Bleaching
This pre-shampoo treatment uses the brand’s bond-building technology to work on hair “from the inside out,” the kind of reinforcement porous, bleach-prone curls need on both ends of a lightening session.
Briogeo Superfoods Avocado + Kiwi Mega Moisture Mask — Best Protein-Free Moisture Mask
Described by the brand as “a protein-free, nourishing hair mask formulated with highly emollient ingredients,” this weekly treatment delivers the kind of moisture Churcher recommends without adding more protein to strands that are already running porous.
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