The U.S. faces escalating textile waste challenges due to fast fashion and limited recycling infrastructure. Federal agencies are initiating collaborative efforts to mitigate environmental impacts and promote sustainable practices.
Textile waste has skyrocketed in recent years, and federal agencies are now starting to come together to tackle the issue. The goal? To keep these materials out of the trash and put them back into use, all while reducing their harmful impact on the planet.
It’s a staggering problem: textile waste in the U.S. grew from 1.76 million tons in 1960 to 17 million tons in 2018, now making up nearly six percent of all municipal solid waste. The fast fashion industry, which churns out cheap, trendy clothes designed to be worn a handful of times before being tossed, is one of the biggest culprits. The Government Accountability Office (GAO) recently released its first-ever report on textile waste, painting a grim picture of its environmental consequences. As textiles rot in landfills, they release greenhouse gases and leach harmful chemicals into soil and water.
“This report is a wakeup call for Congress to take bold action,” said U.S. Representative Chellie Pingree of Maine, who chairs the Congressional Slow Fashion Caucus. “I will introduce legislation next Congress to support and build on these recommendations. Together, we can transition from a linear, throwaway economy to a circular one that protects our environment and communities. I am grateful to the advocates, industry leaders, and colleagues who are standing with me to tackle fast fashion pollution. This is just the beginning.”
The GAO’s findings are as alarming as they are clear: fast fashion’s rise, combined with outdated recycling systems and a lack of infrastructure for sorting and collecting textiles, has made the problem worse. Recycling technologies for textiles remain in their infancy, leaving many garments, carpets, and other materials destined for the dump.
“Every second, a dump truck of textiles ends up in a landfill,” said Senate Environment and Public Works Committee Chairman Tom Carper. “The fashion industry is responsible for nearly ten percent of all global greenhouse gas emissions — more than the aviation sector and maritime shipping combined. Reducing waste from textiles like clothing and upholstery is an important opportunity for Congress and federal agencies to act to protect our planet. We’ve already made great progress in strengthening recycling programs, but addressing the challenges specific to textile waste requires additional efforts. This report highlights the positive steps agencies have already taken to promote textile sustainability, and it also makes it clear that we need a coordinated federal effort to increase textile reuse and recycling for years to come.”
Some federal agencies are beginning to act. The National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST) hosted a workshop in 2021 to explore strategies for reducing textile waste and is currently researching recycling methods. Meanwhile, the Department of State has led an informal interagency group focused on extending the lifespan of materials, hosting a 2024 meeting dedicated to textiles. The EPA is planning to roll out a national textile recycling strategy within the next five to ten years, offering hope that progress is on the horizon.
Still, these efforts are just a start, and the GAO notes that they’re largely piecemeal. Each agency is tackling textile waste based on its specific mission, which has created a patchwork approach. To address this, the GAO recommends a coordinated federal strategy. It’s pushing for Congress to give a federal entity the authority to lead this charge, encouraging agencies to work together more effectively. In 2022, there were early steps to formalize a collaboration, but those efforts fizzled out, leaving the problem unresolved.
The GAO report suggests that interagency collaboration could be a game-changer. It recommends six federal entities, including the EPA, NIST, the Office of Science and Technology Policy, the National Science Foundation, the Department of State, and the Department of Energy, work together to establish a framework for reducing textile waste. This framework would focus on defining common goals, identifying gaps in resources, and finding better ways to collect and sort materials before they end up in landfills.
Why is all this effort necessary? The environmental toll of textile waste is enormous. In 2018 alone, more than 11 million tons of textiles were buried in landfills, making up nearly eight percent of all landfill waste. Synthetic fibers like polyester compound the issue, contributing to plastic pollution that enters waterways and harms marine ecosystems.
And while donating old clothes might seem like the answer, most textiles still end up in the trash. Limited infrastructure for repairing, reselling, or recycling textiles means that consumers often have no alternative to throwing them out. Change will require both systemic improvements — like better recycling technologies — and a cultural shift toward buying less and choosing longer-lasting, sustainable options.
For now, the GAO’s report serves as a rallying cry for federal leadership. It’s clear that without a coordinated effort, the environmental cost of textile waste will only continue to climb. For consumers, the message is simple: rewear, repair, and recycle whenever possible. Every little bit helps when it comes to fighting the tide of fast fashion and building a future that values sustainability over disposability.
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