A new fiber fragmentation scale could help mitigate fashion’s microplastic problem with actionable insights for manufacturers and consumers alike.
Researchers from Scotland’s Heriot-Watt University say a new innovation could reshape how the fashion industry addresses its role in the microplastic crisis. Textile researchers at the university have developed the world’s first visual fiber fragmentation scale, a cost-effective tool designed to measure and reduce the environmental impact of fiber shedding from clothing.
Dr. Lisa Macintyre, associate professor at the university’s School of Textiles and Design, leads the four-year project aimed at equipping both manufacturers and consumers with better information about textile pollution. She describes the scale as a transformative solution for one of fashion’s most pervasive environmental challenges. “The microplastics problem is massive. Fashion and textiles is one of the biggest sources of secondary microplastics in the environment with fragments of plastic fibers, like polyester and nylon, being shed from clothing,” Macintyre explained.
The fiber fragmentation scale operates on a simple, visual five-point grading system. Textiles shedding the most fibers are rated at grade one, while those with minimal shedding achieve grade five. Unlike existing methods, such as those endorsed by the International Organisation for Standardisation (ISO), this approach is both quicker and more affordable. The innovation has been outlined in the research paper Low-cost, High-throughput Quantification of Microplastics Released from Textile Wash Tests: Introducing the Fiber Fragmentation Scale, recently published in the journal Plastics.
The process behind the scale involves using a machine called a rotawash, which mimics the effects of laundry. Textile samples are placed into canisters filled with water and churned to simulate a washing machine cycle. The resulting wastewater is filtered, and the fibers are then visually compared against the scale. The tool was tested extensively, with 46 volunteers — ranging from fashion professionals to students — grading 100 samples over two years.
PhD candidate Sophia Murden, who collaborated with Dr. Macintyre, emphasized the accessibility of the method. “Our methodology is simple and cost-effective. The filters used to collect fiber fragments from laundry wastewater can be graded against our five-point scale, which surprisingly is more accurate at assessing very low levels of fragmentation than the equivalent method of weighing fibers,” Murden said.
Microplastic threats
Microplastics, often smaller than a fraction of a millimeter, present significant threats to ecosystems, wildlife, and human health. Microplastics, which can persist in ecosystems for centuries, have been found in more than 1,300 marine species and are raising alarms about their environmental and health impacts. These fibers can infiltrate waterways during daily wear and laundry, ultimately entering food systems and even in fetal tissue. Research has linked microplastic exposure to cellular damage and inflammation, underscoring the urgency for solutions like the fiber fragmentation scale.
A study published earlier this month in Science Advances found that without significant intervention, global plastic waste could nearly double by 2050, reaching 121 million metric tons, with emissions from the plastic system increasing by 37 percent. However, the researchers demonstrated that a combination of policy measures — including production caps, recycling mandates, packaging taxes, and infrastructure investments — could cut mismanaged plastic waste by 91 percent and reduce plastics-related emissions by one-third.
Another recent study, published in the journal Science, reveals that four targeted policies — mandating 40 percent post-consumer recycled plastic in new products, capping new plastic production at 2020 levels, investing in waste management infrastructure, and imposing a small fee on plastic packaging — could reduce mismanaged plastic waste by 91 percent and cut emissions by one-third. “One of the most exciting discoveries in this research is that it is actually possible to nearly end plastic pollution with this treaty,” researcher Dr. Douglas McCauley of UC Santa Barbara said in a statement. “I’m cautiously optimistic, but we can’t squander this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.”
Dr. Macintyre pointed out the widespread nature of the issue: “There are fiber fragments absolutely everywhere, from icebergs to the deepest ocean to human lungs and our food, they’re in everything.”
The tool’s potential extends beyond manufacturing. If adopted widely, the scale could appear on clothing labels, providing consumers with transparent information about the environmental impact of their choices. This parallels the calorie information displayed on food packaging in the UK, empowering buyers to opt for garments that minimize pollution.
The fiber fragmentation scale has already garnered interest from brands such as Helly Hansen and Lochcarron of Scotland. Widespread adoption would require further collaboration between manufacturers, industry leaders, and policymakers. Dr. Macintyre highlighted the need for standardization: “Currently, we don’t have an ‘acceptable fragmentation’ rate for clothing, but that’s not unusual. The environment is an important issue, and we’d want to get key industry leaders and policymakers to sit down and start agreeing standards, perhaps even legislating against high-shedding materials.”
Replacing microbeads
The grading system comes as U.K.-based startup Naturbeads has secured £7.8 million in Series A funding to expand its innovative approach to tackling microplastic pollution. Founded in 2018 as a spinout from the University of Bath, Naturbeads focuses on replacing microplastics in everyday products like cosmetics, detergents, and adhesives with eco-friendly cellulose microspheres.
Co-founded by CEO Dr. Giovanna Laudisio, CTO Professor Davide Mattia, and the late Professor Janet Scott, the company plans to use the funding to build its first production plant in Puglia, Italy, significantly scaling up production to meet rising demand for sustainable alternatives. The investment round was led by Eos Advisory, with participation from Progress Tech Transfer, CDP Venture Capital, and Paragon Capital Management.
With E.U. regulations phasing out microplastics in products like shampoos and fertilizers, Naturbeads is positioned as a leader in providing sustainable ingredients for multiple industries. Highlighting the urgency, Laudisio remarked, “Microplastics have been found at the top of Arctic mountains and in the depths of the Mariana Trench, with a recent study forecasting that microplastic pollution could more than double over the next decade.” Naturbeads’ cellulose microspheres naturally degrade without compromising product performance, and the company is set to announce its first commercial milestones by 2025.
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