Friday, January 16, 2026

From Ebay to Reformation, Circular Fashion Starts to Scale

Share

Resale platforms, recycled materials, and mixed-fiber recovery technologies are aligning to turn circular fashion from concept into operational reality across the fashion system.

Recent moves by eBay, Circulose, and Radici InNova point to a shift in how circular fashion is being built. These resale platforms, material innovators, and recycling technologies are beginning to lock into place across the fashion value chain, each addressing a different structural gap that has long limited circularity’s reach.

At the consumer and policy level, eBay’s recent decision to join American Circular Textiles places one of the world’s largest resale marketplaces inside a coalition explicitly focused on scaling pre-owned apparel through legislation, standards, and industry coordination. American Circular Textiles operates as a policy platform for the U.S. circular fashion sector, with efforts spanning G7 circular design actions, support for the bipartisan Recommerce Caucus, and multi-state Extended Producer Responsibility initiatives. If passed, legislation such as the Americas Act would introduce federal incentives for circular fashion, linking resale and reuse directly to national economic policy rather than voluntary sustainability commitments alone.

EBay has long functioned as a global reuse marketplace, connecting buyers and sellers and extending product life cycles as a core business activity. According to its 2025 Recommerce Report, more than half of surveyed consumers say purchasing secondhand goods enables them to “express their personal style.” That positioning is reinforced by eBay’s recent designation as Condé Nast’s official pre-loved partner, integrating secondhand fashion into editorial ecosystems that include Vogue, Vanity Fair, and Glamour.

Ebay's Endless Runway show.
Ebay

“Our partnership with American Circular Textiles is a natural extension of our commitment to sustainable commerce and an important step toward accelerating the future of circular fashion,” Renee Morin, eBay’s chief sustainability officer, said in a statement

Rachel Kibbe, CEO and founder of American Circular Textiles, emphasized that the platform’s scale matters as much as its intent. “30 years ago, eBay defined online buying and selling, which means it has had circularity built into its business model from day one. As a household name in the circular economy, we could not be more excited to welcome a voice as organic and influential as eBay to our ongoing efforts to advance the circular economy in the United States.”

Fixing the front end of the supply chain

While resale addresses garments already in circulation, material innovation focuses on preventing waste before products reach consumers. The latest round of Circulose (formerly Renewcell) brand partnerships signals growing confidence in recycled cellulose as a viable replacement for virgin fibers such as viscose and lyocell. Following earlier collaborations with H&M, Mango, and Marks and Spencer, the company has expanded its network to now include Bestseller, John Lewis, C&A, Filippa K, Reformation, Faherty, Bobo Choses, and Zero.

“These partnerships are a vital part of Circulose’s new chapter,” Jonatan Janmark, Circulose’s CEO, said in a statement. “After a year of strategic realignment and intensive engagement with brands, this wave of commitments confirms our progress. Their support will drive us into the next phase of production, enabling brands serious about transforming the textile industry.”

When brands across regions and price points commit to the same material platform, the result is demand stability, something recycled fiber innovations have historically lacked. Circulose’s strategy centers on aligning brand timelines and production volumes to support scaling, rather than relying on isolated capsule collections.

Renewcell's circulose materials.
Circulose

“Each brand has committed to scaling recycled materials and replacing a meaningful share of their man-made cellulosic fibers with Circulose over the coming years,” Janmark told Vogue. “Specific numbers vary by brand. Smaller brands have obviously made smaller commitments, while larger brands have made larger commitments. As of January 2026, we will shift the business model, so that Circulose is no longer available on the open market. That means only brands we have direct partnerships with will be able to buy Circulose.”

By converting textile waste into new fiber inputs, Circulose offers brands a way to reduce reliance on forest-based cellulose without overhauling existing design or manufacturing processes, an approach that has helped accelerate adoption beyond early adopters.

Solving the hardest problem

If resale and recycled materials address the beginning and middle of a garment’s life, fiber recovery remains the most technically difficult challenge at the end. Radici InNova, RadiciGroup’s research and innovation division, has developed a selective dissolution recycling process capable of separating nylon and Lycra fiber from mixed textile waste, a category that has historically been unrecyclable at scale. The patented process, developed with The Lycra Company and Triumph, uses non-toxic, non-flammable solvents compatible with both PA6 and PA66 nylon types.

“Thanks to this project, textile recycling enters a new dimension, demonstrating for the first time that it is possible to recover fibres from mixed fabrics and reuse them to produce new garments,” said Stefano Alini, CEO of Radici InNova. “This is an unprecedented innovation that opens revolutionary development opportunities for the textile industry. At RadiciGroup, we are proud to have conceived and achieved this important milestone together with our partners, and we are ready to take the next steps.”

Zendaya wears leggings and running shoes.
Zendaya wears Spandex | Courtesy

The collaboration moved beyond theoretical validation when Triumph supplied production surplus fabric containing 16 percent Lycra fiber. The recovered fibers were re-spun and processed into new yarns, ultimately producing a 60-meter fabric used to create coordinated lingerie sets. The Lycra Company confirmed that performance characteristics remained intact after recycling.

“This innovative project highlights the role that elastane can have in helping to advance circularity in the apparel industry,” said Nicholas Kurland, Product Development Director, Advanced Concepts, at The Lycra Company. “Working closely with Radici InNova and Triumph, The Lycra Company has demonstrated that Lycra fibres can retain their renowned stretch and recovery performance — providing comfort, fit and ease of movement — even when reintegrated into the spinning cycle.”

For Triumph, the work now extends beyond material recovery into product identification and traceability, systems that will determine whether garments made from recycled fibers can reliably re-enter circular pathways. Although still in its early stages, Vera Galarza, the brand’s global head of sustainability, says Triumph is proud to contribute to this “pioneering initiative and to explore the potential of this innovative recycling technology for future applications.”

Related on Ethos:

Related

How L’Oréal Is Testing Sustainable Innovation at Scale

L’Oréal has revealed the first cohort for L’AcceleratOR, its €100 million sustainable innovation program, selecting 13 companies focused on packaging, ingredients, circular systems, and emissions data. The group was chosen from nearly 1,000 applicants and represents the first pilot phase of the five-year initiative, which is designed to identify, test, and potentially scale sustainability-focused technologies across the company’s global operations and the wider beauty industry. https://www.loreal.com/en/press-release/sustainable-development/-l-oreal-announces-the-first-13-change-makers-chosen-to-join-its-eur-100-million-sustainable-innovation-l-accelerator-program/ Launched in 2024, L’AcceleratOR was created to move beyond concept-stage innovation and toward commercial deployment, with a particular emphasis on solutions that can be piloted within existing industrial systems. The program is operated in partnership with the University of Cambridge Institute for Sustainability Leadership, which is overseeing a structured support phase centered on pilot readiness and business integration. https://www.cisl.cam.ac.uk/ Rather than narrowing its scope to a single sustainability challenge, L’Oréal has positioned the accelerator around a broad set of operational priorities, including low-carbon materials and energy, nature-sourced ingredients, water resilience, the reduction of fossil-based plastics, circular manufacturing processes, and inclusive business models. The composition of the first cohort reflects that approach, with selected companies spanning physical materials, chemical inputs, waste transformation, and digital infrastructure. https://www.esgtoday.com/loreal-backs-13-climate-nature-and-circularity-solutions-startups/ Packaging, Materials, and the Push Away From Fossil Inputs Several of the selected companies focus on rethinking packaging formats that remain deeply embedded in beauty supply chains. United Kingdom-based Pulpex is developing recyclable paper bottles intended to replace rigid plastic packaging, while Japan’s Bioworks produces bioplastics derived from sugarcane and other plant-based feedstocks. Sweden’s Blue Ocean Closures and PULPAC are advancing fiber-based packaging systems designed to reduce both material complexity and carbon intensity, and Estonia’s RAIKU transforms natural wood into protective packaging alternatives traditionally made from petroleum-based foams. https://esgpost.com/loreal-selects-first-13-start-ups-for-laccelerator-sustainability-programme/ Ingredients and formulation inputs are also central to the cohort. France-based Biosynthis focuses on renewable and biodegradable raw materials, while U.S. company P2 Science applies green chemistry principles to develop bio-sourced fragrance and ingredient components. Another U.S. firm, Oberon Fuels, converts wood and pulp waste into renewable dimethyl ether suitable for aerosol formulations, addressing a category that has historically relied on fossil-derived propellants. https://esgpost.com/loreal-selects-first-13-start-ups-for-laccelerator-sustainability-programme/ Circular Systems and Measuring What Matters Circularity solutions appear throughout the cohort, including Belgium’s Novobiom, which uses fungi to break down complex waste streams into higher-value materials, and France’s REPLACE, which has developed a single-step process to convert multi-layer waste into new durable products. From Brazil, Gàs Verde contributes biomethane production technology aimed at reducing fossil fuel use in industrial energy and transport. https://esgpost.com/loreal-selects-first-13-start-ups-for-laccelerator-sustainability-programme/ The only data intelligence company selected, United Kingdom-based Neutreeno, focuses on supply-chain emissions measurement and reduction, reflecting the growing role of digital infrastructure in meeting climate targets and regulatory expectations. https://www.esgtoday.com/loreal-backs-13-climate-nature-and-circularity-solutions-startups/ The thirteen companies will now enter a CISL-led support phase focused on pilot readiness, with opportunities to run six- to nine-month pilots and, if successful, scale solutions across L’Oréal’s operations. Ezgi Barcenas, Chief Corporate Responsibility Officer at L’Oréal, described the approach as intentionally collaborative, saying, “To accelerate sustainable solutions to market, we are being even more intentional and inclusive in our pursuit of partnerships through L’AcceleratOR. We are really energized to be co-designing the future of beauty with CISL and these 13 change-makers.” https://www.esgtoday.com/loreal-backs-13-climate-nature-and-circularity-solutions-startups/ L’AcceleratOR sits within the company’s broader ten-year sustainability strategy, which includes goals to reach one hundred percent renewable energy, source at least ninety percent bio-based materials in formulas and packaging, reduce virgin plastic use by fifty percent, and significantly cut Scope One, Scope Two, and selected Scope Three emissions by 2030. https://www.loreal.com/en/commitments-and-responsibilities/

These 15 Classic Wardrobe Essentials Are the Secret to Functional Everyday Style

Build a more sustainable, classic wardrobe with a closet full of timeless pieces. We've got the best tips to help make shopping easier.

What Is Eco Brutalism? Is It the Beginning or the End of Sustainable Design?

Eco-brutalism is an architectural style gaining popularity for combining brutalist design elements with greenery to create a unique aesthetic and the perception that it is more sustainable than traditional brutalism. However, it has also faced criticism, particularly regarding its sustainability status.

Six Senses Kanuhura Launches a Coral Reef Monitoring First in the Maldives

Six Senses Kanuhura has introduced an advanced coral-monitoring program that gives travelers a new reason to visit the Maldives — one rooted in reef science, long-term protection, and meaningful marine conservation.

Plum Diamonds Was Built for the Lab-Grown Diamond Moment

As lab-grown diamonds are now mainstream, the definition of what makes a diamond “real” is shifting. Plum Diamonds offers a lens on how craftsmanship, intention, and confidence are replacing origin as the markers of value.