Next-generation materials played a pivotal role in Ganni’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection at PFW, while Hodakova brought innovative upcycling to new heights.
Danish luxury label Ganni debuted Polybion’s Celium material in five standout designs during Paris Fashion Week. The partnership, which has been in development for more than a year and a half, first gained attention during Copenhagen Fashion Week when Celium was featured in key pieces from Ganni’s Autumn/Winter 2024 collection. Now, with Paris Fashion Week as the backdrop, the two companies have pushed the boundaries of fashion innovation. The collection, presented at Galerie Haute in Palais de Tokyo, embraced the theme of “The Craft,” which explored contrasts between modern production techniques and responsible material use.
Ditte Reffstrup, Ganni’s Creative Director, described the collection as representing “empowerment, courage, and connection.” She says Celium was a central feature of the brand’s Fabrics of the Future initiative, demonstrating Ganni’s commitment to sustainability while maintaining its signature bold and vibrant designs.
The collection featured Celium in the Denim Blue Bou Bag, Sky Blue XXL Bou Bag, Blazer and Jorts, and the Baby Pink Vest. Polybion’s co-founders call the debut a pivotal moment for next-generation materials. “What excites us most about working with Ganni is their bold leap toward sustainability in an industry known for its environmental challenges,” said Polybion’s leadership. The collaboration demonstrates the potential for innovative, sustainable materials like Celium to redefine fashion on a global scale.
For Polybion, the Paris Fashion Week showcase was more than a milestone. It was a validation of the company’s vision to bring cultivated cellulose materials into the mainstream fashion world. The brand has continued to build momentum since its introduction of Celium, emphasizing both its aesthetic appeal and its environmental benefits.
“Innovators like Polybion and our peers in the Fabrics of the Future initiative are proving that biofabricated, next-gen materials are viable, essential, and ready to lead the future of fashion,” Polybion said in a statement. “With Celium in the spotlight, we’re transforming the material world, one cell at a time.”
Overall, Ganni featured six innovative materials from its Fabrics of the Future initiative, including Circulose, and Simplifyber. “We wanted to capture the Ganni woman’s natural confidence and vibrant energy — someone who is truly in tune. This collection is all about bravery, empowerment, and connection, driving us to new heights in both design and innovation,” said Reffstrup. “I’m most passionate about responsible fabrics, and our Fabrics of the Future program feels like magic.”
Also bringing sustainable fashion to Paris this week is Hodakova, the label from Ellen Hodakova Larsson, this year’s LVMH Prize winner for Young Designers. Known for creating collections entirely from vintage finds and deadstock, her latest PFW showcase featured an inventive and polished approach to sustainable fashion.
The collection revolved around collective memories, as Larsson explained backstage after the show. By drawing on traditional references and transforming them, Larsson constructed a fresh, innovative vocabulary for her designs.
One of the standout pieces included a shift dress adorned with sunglass lenses, a callback to another of Larsson’s celebrated designs — a top Cate Blanchett wore made from antique spoons. The show also featured a shimmering evening gown made from hundreds of zippers in brown and gold tones. The collection also featured a dress constructed from leather boots, with their feet arranged toe to toe, creating a peplum effect. Larsson’s inspiration extended to personal landscapes as well; paintings from her home in Sweden were repurposed, with canvases transformed into garments. One dress, complete with an intact frame, featured a rectangular hem, further pushing the boundaries of traditional fashion design.
Vintage pearly buttons were used as sequins and were connected to a striking video projection that opened the show, featuring a single button set against a human eye, encouraging viewers to see everyday objects in a new light.
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