What should you inspect when buying secondhand clothing? From fabric integrity to hardware, stains, odors, and fit, quality is a key consideration when thrifting.
You’ve spotted the perfect jacket: crisp lapels, vintage charm, the tag still swinging — all the signs of fortune. Secondhand shopping is attracting more buyers than ever. The global market is expected to surpass $360 billion by 2029 as consumers move toward the resale market at increasing speeds. “It’s more affordable, you don’t look the same as everyone else, and can carve out a really individual style,” Amy Bannerman, the stylist behind Love Island’s eBay wardrobe, told The Independent.
But there are key considerations when shopping secondhand; be aware of trend over longevity. High style points are great, but if construction is poor, value disappears fast. A “nice label” does not always mean “nice quality,” either.
But before you swing the hanger from the rack and whisper “mine,” there are often overlooked details that can make that score more than a chore. Success in secondhand shopping hinges less on serendipity than it does on scrutiny. Be on the lookout for these common areas of hidden damage.
Where to look for hidden damage in secondhand clothing
Hardware and fasteners
Test each zipper — zip it up and down multiple times. The slider should glide without catching; teeth should align and not be bent. Check buttons and snaps: if they wobble or are missing, replacement will leave visible gaps or unevenness.
Fabric and fiber
Natural fibers like cotton, wool, linen, leather, and silk, tend to age better; synthetics may degrade faster, pill, trap odor, or stretch out. Acrylic in sweaters “is designed to mimic cashmere,” but is likely to pill and lose its look after wear. But with natural fibers, be on the lookout for holes — especially in wool.
Seams, stitching, construction
Turn garments inside out. Look along seams, inside linings, inside backs. Loose threads, uneven stitching, puckering, mismatched patterns, or fabrics at seams are warning signs. Reinforcements (e.g. bartacks or double stitching) at stress-points like crotch, pockets, shoulder seams are green flags. Check the stitching, seams, and reinforcements to ensure they are secure and well-executed.
Holes, thinning, snags
Inspect high-wear zones: underarms, seat, elbows, knees. Hold fabric to light — thinning may be nearly invisible on outer side but obvious internally. Large snags, pulls, or holes that go all the way through can be deal-breakers unless you are okay with visible repair.
Stains, odors, discoloration
Yellowing around underarms, collars, or inside lining are often easily missed. Hidden stains often lurk on linings or back panels. Smell test — close to face — look for mildew, smoke, chemical smells. These may be deeply embedded. When secondhand shopping, stain issues are frequent: items are often displayed without sufficient vetting.
Fit and alterations
Try items on where possible. If not, compare measurements (your bust, waist, hip, etc.) to those of the item. Look out for signs of alterations: uneven hems, mismatched fabric panels, and altered seam lines. Some alterations are invisible from the outside; checking inside seams helps.
Pest or hygiene issues
Inspect inside pockets, collars, folds. Look for small black specks (droppings), tiny white eggs, and evidence of mildew. Even the cleanest-looking item may harbor malodors or microorganisms. Always wash, steam, or otherwise disinfect before wearing.
Clean and care tips once you buy
If you do decide to take the garment home, always read care labels before laundering. Use the gentlest washing method allowed; some coats, structured jackets, and embellished pieces need dry cleaning.
For visible sweat or underarm stains, The Spruce recommends pre-treating with a paste of baking soda, hydrogen peroxide, and water, letting it sit, then washing in the warmest safe water.
To sanitize, washing with regular laundry detergent plus a laundry sanitizer or adding distilled white vinegar in the final rinse helps kill bacteria that may linger.
For odor or lingering smell, soak in a vinegar solution overnight, and if needed, freeze the item or let it air outside for a couple of days before washing.
When to walk away
One of the biggest attractions of shopping secondhand is finding those hidden gems. That often means minor repairs or cleaning to make items wearable. But many are more trouble than they’re worth. If hardware is broken beyond simple repair, if fabric is extremely worn or thin in multiple high-stress areas, if stains are deep-set and widespread, or odor is overwhelming, it’s probably not a good investment at any price. Items with signs of pest infestation should almost always be avoided unless you have the proper means to treat safely.
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