Is our obsession with soap washing ourselves into unhealthy skin?
James Hamblin, Yale School of Public Health lecturer and podcast host for The Atlantic, is convinced that soap destroys our skin’s microbiome. He should know. The author of the 2020 book Clean: The New Science of Skin and the Beauty of Doing Less, stopped using soap about seven years ago. He’s never looked back. And while handwashing is critical for preventing the spread of disease, it’s not necessarily the best approach for the rest of your body, says Hamblin.
Maybe we’re meant to be dirty hippies after all.
As Hamblin learned about the body’s external microbiome, he decided to forego the soap for a bit. He found he could be clean and odor-free without soap, especially as his skin’s microbiome became healthier — the naturally occurring bacteria on his skin began to do the work soap used to do.
Hamblin questioned our modern understanding of and expectations around cleanliness. After all, humans survived millennia without Axe body wash (whether or not we’ll survive millennia since its invention is the bigger question). By the 1920s, body odor was stigmatized. As advertising for soap ramped up via print, radio, and eventually television, it further divorced us from our animal nature: you smell and you need to do something about it. This same approach led to the shampoo industry boom and our habitual overwashing of hair.
But the real question is: Just how clean do we really need to be?
“We know from historical writings that certainly people smelled bad. We didn’t just accept all smells,” Hamblin told The Guardian. “Now, if someone smells sweaty or of anything less than soap, perfume or cologne, we think of that as being unclean.” And that aversion has led to a rise in harmful chemical fragrances that permeate every aspect of our lives. From body care to laundry detergent to candles and air fresheners, we’re bombarding our lives with toxic chemical fragrances.
Are fragrances dangerous?
Synthetic fragrances often contain chemicals called phthalates that extend the life of a scent. It’s why you can smell laundry detergent on clothes days, and even weeks, after they came out of the dryer (or thrift store). Phthalates have been linked to numerous health issues including reproductive and developmental toxicity, endocrine disruption, birth defects, respiratory problems, and some forms of cancer.
These chemicals can also exacerbate skin issues. And Hamblin suggests the rise in chronic skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, and acne may also be the result of the constant attempts at prevention and removal of the skin’s microbiome. Scrubbing away the bacteria designed to protect the body and neutralize odors makes it come back stronger and more imbalanced, creating a cycle of skin issues and odors.
“As I gradually used less and less [soap], I started to need less and less,” Hamblin writes. “My skin slowly became less oily, and I got fewer patches of eczema. I didn’t smell like pine trees or lavender, but I also didn’t smell like the oniony body odour that I used to get when my armpits, used to being plastered with deodorant, suddenly went a day without it.” He smelled “like a person,” his girlfriend explained.
Should you stop using soap?
There’s no question that handwashing is needed for preventing the spread of infectious diseases. It’s also necessary after using the bathroom and before preparing or eating food. But as for the rest of it? That may be optional. But to be clear, foregoing soap doesn’t mean foregoing washing — water and elbow grease are important to do regularly.
But just like our scalp benefits with days (even weeks) without hair washing, skin quality may improve by reducing the use of soap, especially the chemical-laden mainstream products. At the very least, use a natural soap. (But if you skip it, don’t worry. No one on your Zoom call will ever know.)
Sustainable, nontoxic soap
So what if you can’t go entirely soap-free just yet? Making the switch to nontoxic, environmentally friendly soaps is a healthier step for you and the planet. These options eschew the toxic chemicals in many conventional soaps and some companies, like Dr. Bronner’s, are deeply vested in social justice and environmental issues.
Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soap
The OG organic, natural, and sustainable soap brand is also keen on supporting Fair Trade across its supply chain. It works with producers and growers committed to ethical practices, such as protecting the rainforests from deforestation. The brand is also an advocate for psychedelic medicine and is a vocal proponent of animal rights. You can get clean with organic oil soaps from hemp seeds, olives, and coconuts. And a little bit of magic, of course.
Herbivore Bar Soap
Cleanse gently with the healing power of French clay, an exceptional option for blemish-prone skin. Use it all over for a silky, smooth clean and a delicate fragrance from essential oils of geranium and blood orange. Like all of Herbivore’s bar soaps (and its other products), the clean ingredient list is free from synthetic fragrances and other ingredients. The cruelty-free soap bar is meant to last, too, making it a more sustainable investment as well.
Corpus Natural Body Wash
Hydrate and cleanse with the vegan body wash from Corpus. Perfect for all skin types, extra generous to dehydrated skin. The plant-based formula relies on coconut-derived emulsion to gently cleanse and help moisturize the skin. The body wash comes in three drool-worthy scents: Nº Green, which marries citrus plants and spice; Santalum, a sandalwood-amber blend; and Third Rose, a subtle rose with hints of citrus. All are free from synthetics and come in a recyclable aluminum container.
Osmia Black Clay Facial Soap
Featuring Australian black clay and Dead Sea mud, this facial soap is designed to balance, tone, and condition. Balanced with deeply nourishing sweet almond, avocado, and jojoba oils, your skin will feel dewy and soft after each use. Scented with lemon, cedarwood, bergamot, and balsam.
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