French biotech startup Faircraft has raised $15.8 million to expand its lab-grown leather operations and meet increasing demand for sustainable materials.
With a nearly $16 million funding round led by prominent investors including Kindred Ventures, Cap Horn, and Alliance for Impact, Faircraft says it will grow its team and accelerate the scaling of its innovative production processes. “Lab-grown leather represents a major evolution that goes far beyond the fashion industry,” said Haïkel Balti, co-founder and CEO of Faircraft. “It enables the creation of unique pieces with minimal environmental impact while offering new possibilities to leather artisans and designers.”
Faircraft’s lab-grown leather is produced using cellular agriculture techniques that replicate the structure and composition of traditional leather. By cultivating animal skin cells in a laboratory setting, the company creates genuine leather without the environmental and ethical challenges associated with livestock farming. Compared to traditional leather production, Faircraft’s process significantly reduces its ecological footprint. It produces 90 percent fewer carbon dioxide emissions, generates 95 percent less waste, and uses 80 percent less water.
Despite its reliance on advanced biotechnology, Faircraft remains committed to traditional craftsmanship. The company collaborates with master tanners to ensure its lab-grown leather meets the same aesthetic and functional standards expected of luxury materials. Faircraft aims to scale its production to achieve price parity with conventional leather. While lab-grown leather remains more expensive at present, advancements in technology and increased production volumes are expected to bring costs down.
The $15.8 million investment will allow Faircraft to refine its proprietary production methods, which are protected by two international patents. The company’s laboratories, located in Paris, are staffed by a team of 20 scientists and engineers with expertise in cellular biology, biochemistry, and materials science.
Several companies are leading the charge in lab-grown leather innovation. VitroLabs Inc., based in California, has positioned itself as a pioneer in this field. The company raised $46 million in a Series A funding round in May 2022 to scale its production processes. Key backers included global luxury group Kering, Invest FWD, and environmental advocate Leonardo DiCaprio. VitroLabs aims to make cell-cultivated leather viable for mass production, targeting luxury fashion as a primary application.
Biotech start-up 3D Bio-Tissues, supported by BSF Enterprise, recently unveiled its lab-grown leather sample at the Future Fabrics Expo in London. Made from immortalized cells ethically sourced from a horse, the tissue-engineered leather mimics the structural and genetic properties of traditional leather. Cultured in a lab over six weeks without plastics or cellulose, the material can be tanned using conventional or eco-friendly methods, offering versatile options in appearance and color.
3D Bio-Tissues is set apart through a patented serum-free, animal-free cell culture supplement, City-mix, which accelerates tissue growth while lowering production costs. The result is a leather product entirely derived from animal tissue without harming animals. This innovation also tackles environmental issues linked to traditional tanning processes and has potential applications across industries like fashion, automotive, furniture, and accessories.
Another significant player is Modern Meadow, founded in 2011. The company focuses on biofabricated materials and has secured substantial funding to advance its technology, including $45 million in Series B financing. Modern Meadow’s process uses bioengineering to create materials that mimic traditional leather while prioritizing sustainability.
Kanyi Maqubela, managing partner at Kindred Ventures, highlighted the significance of this development: “The luxury market is built on tradition — timeless craftsmanship, unmatched quality, and a commitment to excellence. Faircraft’s lab-grown leather is a breakthrough for brands and consumers who refuse to compromise between quality and sustainability.”
Faircraft’s innovation addresses a key challenge for the fashion industry: reconciling luxury and sustainability. The company is already collaborating with major luxury brands to integrate lab-grown leather into their products, signaling a shift toward more responsible material sourcing.
“Lab-grown leather is more than an ethical alternative; it’s a technological breakthrough that reduces waste and opens new creative possibilities for designers,” said Balti. “This material offers the durability and beauty of traditional leather while significantly lowering its environmental costs.”
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