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Fur has long been a symbol of luxury, but the ethical and environmental implications have seen it fall out of fashion. Enter eco faux fur — sustainable and cruelty-free alternatives taking center stage at some of the world’s biggest luxury labels.
Every five years, the USDA, as part of the U.S. Census, publishes data on mink farming across the nation. The latest figures reveal a steep decline in the fur industry. In 2017, there were 236 mink fur farms operating in the U.S. Five years later, that number dropped by more than half to 110. Given the rapid pace of this downturn, it’s likely that even more farms have shuttered in the past year.
Over the same period, the number of mink killed for their fur in the U.S. fell sharply, from 3.3 million to 1.3 million. Coupled with the lower prices mink farmers are getting for pelts, the value of the U.S. mink trade has plummeted 68 percent, going from $123 million in 2017 to $39 million in 2022.
“The new numbers show an enormous drop in demand, meaning millions of mink are spared from suffering and death, all to produce poms on hats or fur-trim on gloves and shoes,” Kitty Block, president and CEO of the Humane Society of the United States, and Sara Amundson, president of the Humane Society Legislative Fund, wrote in a joint blog post. “This is thanks in no small part due to growing awareness about the inherent cruelties and public health dangers of the fur industry.”
The rise and fall of fur
Long before the vintage, fur-clad mob wife aesthetic was a look, fur was the ultimate clothing flex. Watch almost any movie made (or set) before the 1970s and glimpses of floor-length fur coats or hand-warming muffs are practically guaranteed.
The expensive, draping lush mink, fox, beaver, rabbit, raccoon, chinchilla, and even coyote were symbols of status and commitment, but their origins, like many things, are rooted in practicality. Our hunter-gatherer ancestors valued animal fur as much as status-seeking women of a certain era. Pelts were cherished for their warmth — often the key to surviving cold winters.
We’re genetically hardwired to seek out that soft warmth, but that’s evolved to a cognitive dissonance of sorts as most consumers want to make the ethical choice but find it difficult to let go of fur entirely. After all, what’s warmer? Or softer?
Nonetheless, morality won out, resulting in a wholesale shift away from fur in recent years. Most major fashion labels have ditched fur, succumbing to years of pressure from organizations like PETA. Its roster of A-list celebrities willing to bare all to urge brands to go fur-free was so successful that the “I’d Rather Go Naked Than Wear Fur” campaign was retired by the organization several years ago.
The fashion industry’s reliance on conventional fur has long been the subject of environmental and ethical debates. “Once upon a time, people could claim ignorance of the cruelty in fur production — but now that’s impossible,” PETA founder Ingrid Newkirk told Glamour’s Fashion director-at-large Alexandra Fullerton in 2022.
Newkirk said fur farming sees animals “confined for life” in cramped wire cages, often without any protection from the elements. “You can see them going insane from the extreme stress of confinement — some trying in vain to generate mood-elevating endorphins by circling endlessly on the metal slats, others even gnawing at their own legs in desperation.”
Environmentalists say that even if you’re unfazed by the animal cruelty, the industry’s emissions are enough to warrant an immediate and permanent end to fur farming. Numerous studies have found that the production of one kilogram of mink fur results in approximately 110 kg of CO2 emissions, a figure alarmingly high compared to synthetic textiles or even other animal materials, like wool. This heightened carbon output is due in large part to the intensive animal farming practices and the chemical processing involved in fur production.
Despite a decline in demand for fur, annually, more than 100 million animals, including minks, foxes, and raccoons, are bred and killed for their fur. The high demand for fur has led to overexploitation of wildlife, disrupting natural ecosystems and contributing to biodiversity loss.
But while the use of conventional fur has declined, the desire to feel that unmistakable warmth has not. Enter: faux fur. Numerous high-end labels are not only redefining luxury fashion by finding creative alternatives to animal fur, but are also setting a precedent for the industry to follow.
Sustainable faux fur
In response to these concerns, numerous labels are exploring sustainable faux fur materials as viable and ethical alternatives. In 2022, as one of the last luxury groups not to ban fur from its labels, LVMH announced its plans to explore lab-grown fur with help from Imperial College London and Central Saint Martins University of the Arts.
Ecopel, a frontrunner in this field, offers high-quality faux ‘Flur’ made from recycled plastics. This approach not only reduces waste but also conserves resources, setting a new standard in sustainable fashion. Ecopel’s commitment to eco-friendly practices extends to its entire production process, ensuring minimal environmental impact.
Katharine Hamnett’s Bio-Fur is another noteworthy mention for its use of innovative, bio-based materials that offer a luxurious feel akin to real fur.
Bio-Fluff, which recently partnered with Ganni on faux fur bags, represents yet another stride in this direction. The platform’s unique approach to faux fur involves using organic and renewable resources, making their products fully biodegradable. This commitment to sustainability showcases Bio-Fluff’s dedication to reducing the fashion industry’s carbon footprint.
During COP28, designer Stella McCartney debuted faux fur from Italian label Savian, which produces an entirely plant-based and plastic-free fur using a blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern biotechnology. The plant-based fur is made from cellulose, hemp, and linen.
Luxury faux fur
These labels are not only making a statement in fashion but also in environmental stewardship.
Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney has long been a trailblazer in sustainable fashion, and her use of eco-friendly faux fur is no exception. While the Savian fur isn’t yet available, McCartney offers other eco and vegan options. McCartney’s designs merge high fashion with a strong ethical stance, proving that luxury can be both beautiful and responsible.
Ganni
Danish luxury label Ganni has thrown itself onto the leaderboard with its aggressive shift in materials and production, aiming to become the most sustainable fashion label on the planet. And if we can expect any label to level up a material category, it will likely be Ganni.
Prada
Prada has integrated sustainable faux fur into its collections as part of its sustainability commitments. Its approach to faux fur combines aesthetic appeal with environmental consciousness, offering pieces that are both stylish and eco-friendly.
Gucci
Gucci has been slowly making the shift to more sustainable materials, mainly across its leather offerings. But here, a luxe, white faux fur coat capitalizes on one of the hottest trends of the season and the label’s efforts to become a more responsible luxury label.
Chanel
Chanel has also joined the sustainable fashion movement. The label’s use of high-quality faux fur in its garments and accessories reflects its shift away from animal products. These faux fur boots are a standout.
Burberry
Known for its classic designs, Burberry is also becoming known for its sustainability. The label has shifted to more responsible materials and production methods. Here, it brings faux fur into its collection, highlighting its commitment to ethical and environmentally friendly practices.
Balenciaga
Balenciaga has taken big strides toward replacing leather, embracing materials like Sqim’s mycelium leather. And it has also turned toward more ethical fur, like this shrunk faux fur jacket that will fool the biggest fur lovers.
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten has increasingly incorporated sustainable materials into recent collections, including the use of organic cotton, cotton waste, and recycled polyester. The label focuses on creating high-quality garments designed for longevity, reducing the need for frequent replacement and minimizing waste. Additionally, Van Noten emphasizes local production in Europe, which helps to lower the carbon footprint associated with his fashion line.
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