Monday, December 11, 2023

MycoWorks Makes Its Mushroom Leather RTW Debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week


MycoWorks’ revolutionary mycelium-based biomaterial, Reishi, made its RTW debut during Copenhagen Fashion Week as part of Deadwood Studios’ new avant-garde collection.

The Deadwood appearance marks the debut of Reishi, MycoWorks’ product of Fine Mycelium, in the ready-to-wear segment, indicating a transformative direction for contemporary designers.

Carl Ollson and Felix von Bahder, the brains behind Deadwood Studios, recognized the distinctive attributes of Reishi and collaborated with the product development team at MycoWorks. Felix von Bahder expressed his admiration for the material. “Every square centimeter of this material is a work of art itself, and Nature is the artist. I just love the raw quality of the surface with its organic formations of spots and specks. That’s what perfection looks like to me,” he said in a statement.

“We worked with Carl and Felix as they created the capsule collection from their atelier in Stockholm,” said Bill Morris, MycoWorks’ VP of Product Design. “It’s so special to see designers learn to fabricate with our new material. Deadwood has really taken the Reishi for what it is, and harnessed the natural characteristics of mycelium into raw, beautiful, and natural design.”

michael ducaroy for Ligne Roset
Ligne Roset adds mushroom leather to its offerings | Courtesy

Having first aligned during a bespoke event at Paris Fashion Week, both brands found common ground in their dedication to artistry and craftsmanship. The result of this harmonious relationship was a made-to-order four-piece collection now accessible on the Deadwood Studios online platform. Carl Ollson says reishi is a unique material to work with, “supple but structured, its natural mycelial color and marbled detailing add a rawness unmatched with other fabrics on the market.”

MycoWorks’ pioneering production process for Fine Mycelium is meticulously orchestrated in a controlled setting, letting the mycelium form intricate cellular structures. These form the foundational elements of their exquisite Reishi sheets. Notably, this upscale biomaterial stands alone as a mycelium-derived leather alternative that aligns with the luxury sector’s performance expectations and environmental pledges, blending quality with a minimized carbon footprint.

The exclusive Reishi Mycelium Capsule collection by Deadwood features items like the Xiva Reishi Coat, Canoo Reishi Jacket, Vivo Reishi Vest, and the Vander Reishi Bag, available for enthusiasts on the Deadwood Studios website.

Balenciaga's Lunaform Maxi Bathrobe Coat
Balenciaga’s Lunaform Maxi Bathrobe Coat | Courtesy

Deadwood Studios, established in 2013 by Ollson and von Bahder, originated from upcycling vintage items from their concept store. The brand, grounded in sustainability, now integrates offcuts and deadstock into its sought-after collections and is navigating design pathways with leather alternatives.

MycoWorks also established itself in 2013, led by Philip Ross and Sophia Wang in San Francisco. The biomaterials enterprise has worked with French luxury houses Hermès and Ligne Roset.

The news comes as Balenciaga also debuted a new vegan leather alternative at Paris Fashion Week — a coat made from Gozen’s biomaterial.

Deadwood’s made-to-order Reish Mycelium Capsule collection includes the Xiva Reishi Coat ($3,248), Canoo Reishi Jacket ($1,624), Vivo Reishi Vest ($542), and the Vander Reishi Bag ($1,083). All are available for purchase at the Deadwood website.

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