A new report looks at the challenges and opportunities in finding alternatives to silk, wool, down, and fur.
In its new report, “White Space #1: Sub-Categories with Limited Innovation 2024,” the Material Innovation Initiative (MII) offers an in-depth look at the vast opportunities within the next-generation materials sector. This report specifically focuses on alternatives to traditional animal-based materials including silk, wool, down, and fur. This is the first in a series of seven white space reports coming from MII. Each report focuses on different crucial areas of the next-gen materials industry, providing stakeholders with accessible and actionable information.
The report underscores the critical need for innovation in these textile sub-categories linked to climate change and animal welfare issues. MII notes that despite the broader market’s challenges, investment in next-gen materials is on the rise.
‘Call to action’ for sustainable material development
Nicole Rawling, Co-Founder & CEO of MII, emphasized the importance of focusing efforts on promising areas within the industry. “Our goal is to direct interest, attention, and resources to the areas within the next-gen materials industry that hold the most promise,” she said in a statement. Rawling called the report “a call to action for the industry” to innovate for the benefit of accelerating sustainable and ethical material development.
According to the report’s findings, the market potential for next-gen alternatives to silk, wool, down, and fur is significant. Currently, these materials make up less than one percent of the market, leaving substantial room for growth and innovation. The report also delves into strategies for next-gen materials to outperform traditional ones in both performance and sustainability. For example, next-gen down could offer superior insulating properties and perform better in wet conditions than bird feathers.
Furthermore, the report sets specific performance and aesthetic goals that new materials must meet to surpass existing animal-based and synthetic options. It includes profiles of leading companies and startups like AMSilk, Spiber, and Ecopel, showcasing pioneers in the next-gen materials space to inspire and guide new market entrants.
Next-gen material demand
The report outlines several crucial takeaways. Firstly, there is strong consumer demand for next-gen materials that replicate the look and feel of traditional animal-based materials but are more sustainable. For instance, synthetic fur that closely mimics real fur without the cruelty is highly sought after. Consumers value functionality, warmth, and aesthetics in their purchasing decisions.
Secondly, innovation in this sector demands significant time and investment. The development and scaling of next-gen materials involve complex, resource-intensive processes requiring long-term commitments from both innovators and investors. Patience and sustained effort are crucial for bringing these innovations to market.
Lastly, MII says collaboration plays a vital role in the success of the next-gen materials industry. Effective partnerships between brands, manufacturers, and material innovators are essential to ensure new materials meet industry standards and consumer expectations. Such collaborations facilitate smoother adoption and integration into existing supply chains.
“Although we’re seeing more and more companies innovating in the next-gen materials space, some key white spaces remain underserved,” said Thomasine Dolan Dow, Director of Materials Innovation and Design at MII. According to Dolan Dow, the majority of innovators in the industry are focused on next-gen leather alternatives, leaving many opportunities in silk, wool, down, and fur untapped. “We’re excited to see innovations in these areas expand in the future and hope this report provides critical insights for stakeholders looking to harness the significant opportunities in the next-gen materials industry.”
Material tech innovations
The report comes as a new type of pure synthetic leather, made from bio-based plastic, meets the high requirements of the European Ecodesign Regulation. This biodegradable material supports a closed recycling process, addressing the sustainability issues of traditional synthetic leathers that consist of non-biodegradable composite materials, making recycling difficult and costly. The development, carried out in collaboration between the Deutsche Institute für Textil- und Faserforschung Denkendorfand the Freiberg Institute gGmbH, uses aliphatic polyester polybutylene succinate (PBS) as both the fiber and coating polymer. PBS, sourced from biogenic materials, is biodegradable and thermoplastically processable, facilitating recycling and meeting eco-design criteria set by the E.U.’s Sustainable Products Initiative.
Scientists at Thailand’s Mahidol University have also developed a leather alternative from discarded pineapple leaf fibers that rivals conventional leather and outperforms other plant-based products. The study was published in the journal Sustainability. This 100 percent bio-based pineapple leaf fiber (PALF) leather, adhered with natural rubber and produced without chemical treatments or additional plastics, has significant potential for large-scale production in clothing, bags, and shoes. The researchers highlighted the material’s sustainability and economic viability, positioning it as a revolutionary alternative to traditional leather that can contribute to a more environmentally friendly future.
The PALF leather showed impressive tensile strength and tear resistance in tests, significantly outperforming other commercial alternatives like mushroom-based leather — up to 60 times stronger.
The White Space report also follows an announcement by Austrian sustainable material giant, Lenzing. The manufacturer of regenerative materials tencel and modal, says it is tackling another challenge in the textile industry: water use. Lenzing has partnered with Exponent Envirotech and Cobalt Fashion to advance waterless dyeing for its cellulose-based fibers using Exponent Envirotech’s Ecohues. The technique reduces water use by 95 percent — just two liters per T-shirt, compared to the usual 40 liters. It also cuts dye usage by 40 percent and increases dye fixation to 97 percent, compared to 62 percent with water-based dyeing. Additionally, it shortens the dyeing process for a cotton T-shirt from 12 hours to six to eight hours.
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