Pangaia’s launch of its biobased (gaia)PLNT Nylon capsule and Under Armour’s debut of a regenerative sportswear line with Unless reveal how two distinct approaches to sustainable innovation are reshaping performance wear.
Pangaia has released its latest capsule collection, (gaia)PLNT Nylon. Designed and produced in London, the line marks a notable move away from petroleum-based synthetics. Each piece is constructed from EVO, a 100 percent biobased polyamide developed from castor oil. The material offers an alternative to fossil-fuel-derived performance fabrics, and its use here underscores the brand’s push to redefine the technical category through biobased material science.
EVO is made from castor seeds, a hardy plant that thrives in dry areas and needs very little water to grow. From these seeds, a high-tech nylon is created that’s gentler on the planet. Compared to traditional synthetics, EVO produces 25 percent fewer carbon emissions during manufacturing and is lighter than polyester by the same amount. It also dries 50 percent faster, naturally helps regulate body temperature, and fights odor thanks to its built-in insulation and bacteriostatic properties. All of this makes EVO a smart, sustainable choice for performance wear — without the environmental downsides of conventional materials.
According to Chelsea Franklin, Head of Advanced Concept Design at Pangaia, working with new materials always carries risk, “so we kept this run limited to responsibly manage uncertainty while supporting innovation at scale,” she told Ethos via email. “Challenges are inevitable with the unknown, but close collaboration with our manufacturer enabled quick, effective problem-solving.”
The capsule includes four pieces: a cropped women’s jacket, a coordinating mini skirt, a unisex jacket, and relaxed-fit track pants. Each item is constructed with mono-material precision and finished with functional details designed for reduced waste, including recycled PET tape, nickel-free pullers, and fabric self-ties. The silhouettes — clean, utilitarian, and tailored — present a deliberate contrast to the flashier aesthetics often found in activewear, favoring subtlety over branding. “I see the design intention for these styles to be versatile–comfortable and high-performing, yet refined and minimal,” Franklin says. “Working with a new material, we learned throughout the development process — understanding how it drapes, sounds, feels against the skin, and designing into its properties. This balance reflects our minimalist approach, expanding the collection with the consumer at the core.”
Representing what Pangaia calls “a paradigm shift in material innovation,” the material combines “the strength and versatility of traditional nylon with a reduced environmental impact, offering a high-performance, renewable alternative to fossil-fuel-based synthetics,” the company said in a statement. The brand’s goal is to replace conventional materials with lower-impact alternatives across categories, combining design, science, and transparency to advance what it calls an “Earth-positive” approach to fashion.
Pangaia’s approach is material-first, but it is not operating in isolation. Days before the (gaia)PLNT Nylon release, Under Armour and Unless introduced a fully regenerative sportswear capsule during Milan Design Week. Shown at Fuorisalone from April 8 to 10, the collaborative installation demonstrates a different but equally pointed intervention in the performance wear market: garments made from only plant-based materials, designed to break down after use and return to the earth.
Unlike recycled or partially sustainable lines, the Under Armour x Unless collection is designed for complete decomposition. At the end of a product’s life cycle, its materials can be composted. This model is intended to eliminate waste rather than mitigate it. The launch includes hoodies, t-shirts, and shorts in both gendered and unisex styles, priced from $30 to $160.
“As a brand that has consistently disrupted the industry, we are prepared to do it again,” said Eric Liedtke, Under Armour Brand President, in a statement. “Our unique and innovative approach represents a significant shift from the traditional production cycle, which often relies heavily on plastics and generates waste.”
He added, “By using only plant-based materials; this regenerative sportswear collection is designed to decompose rather than pollute – representing a revolutionary advancement in reimagining the future of product creation in our industry, with an innovative commitment that honors both athletes and the planet.”
The installation in Milan walked viewers through the full lifecycle of a garment — from plant to yarn, garment to compost — in a bid to reinforce the idea that technical apparel can be made without plastics and still deliver on performance.
The timing of these two product launches is not incidental. The global sportswear market is growing and under pressure to evolve. In 2023, it was valued at $395 billion and is expected to reach nearly $580 billion by 2029, according to a report by Arizton. Consumers are increasingly seeking options that align with sustainability goals, and brands are responding by investing in both biobased and regenerative materials.
Biobased nylon, in particular, is drawing interest as a scalable alternative to petroleum-based synthetics. The global market for biobased nylon fiber was valued at $76 million in 2023 and is projected to reach $126.4 million by 2030, according to Valuates Reports. Its adoption is being accelerated by brands looking to balance durability, function, and environmental responsibility.
At the same time, regenerative design — which includes compostable textiles, circular supply chains, and zero-plastic garment construction — is gaining traction among newer entrants like Unless and as a proof-of-concept platform for legacy brands like Under Armour. These systems are harder to scale, but their appeal is growing in an industry where linear models are losing relevance.
Athleisure, which continues to blur the lines between fashion, sport, and lifestyle, is moving beyond trend and into permanent category status. Within that, sustainability is no longer a value-add — it is quickly becoming a baseline requirement. The market for sustainable athleisure is projected to grow from $101.27 billion in 2024 to $156.05 billion by 2029, as reported by The Business Research Company. Brands investing in either biobased or regenerative design are positioning themselves not just as innovators, but as category leaders.
For Pangaia, that means continuous research and iteration across materials, “we’re committed to developing materials and products that move the industry away from fossil fuel dependence,” Franklin says. “As these technologies scale, we’re hopeful next-gen biomaterials will become a core part of everyday products.” And for Under Armour and Unless, it means proving that even mass sportswear can be circular by design. Both companies are testing what the next phase of performance apparel can look like when built without compromise — on function, on design, or on environmental cost.
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