Mexico-based materials company Polybion has unveiled what it says is the worldwide market debut of its signature sustainable bacterial cellulose material, Celium, setting the stage for a new material category altogether.
When it comes to textiles, there are few that the fashion industry can live without, and a few that, seemingly, it can’t. Exotic skins and fur are no longer deemed necessary — hence the slew of bans introduced by popular brands (and some municipalities) in the last few years. “I don’t want to kill animals to make fashion,” Donatella Versace said in 2018. “We will continue to strive to do better for the environment and the animals,” said former Gucci boss Marco Bizzarri the year before.
And yet, while fur has largely fallen out of fashion, the use of leather persists. Like fur and snake skin, the material is an animal product that brings up the same ethical concerns, and it also has a monumental environmental impact as a leading driver of deforestation and biodiversity loss. But for some reason, with few exceptions, the fashion industry just can’t seem to let it go.
British designer Stella McCartney has never used leather, for example, and in 2022, Danish luxury label Ganni pledged to move away from the material for good. The brand has (kind of) stuck to its word; it still makes garments with leather (which is recycled), but it has also made a concerted effort to seek out innovative alternatives. For its Autumn/Winter 2024 collection, it worked with Polybion to create new pieces, including a baby pink crop top, a miniskirt, and a new version of Ganni’s iconic Bou bag.
Polybion says the market debut of Celium can benefit the entire fashion industry and maybe even inch it closer to breaking up with leather for good, while also reducing food waste at the same time. Starting today, the brand’s groundbreaking material will be available to global manufacturers. “The collaboration with Ganni has served as an authentic compass, offering invaluable guidance from a product development and research and development standpoint,” Polybion co-founders Axel and Alexis Gómez Ortigoza told Ethos. “We aspire for this collaboration to serve as a beacon, demonstrating the true potential of biomaterials when all parties commit equally.”
We spoke with the co-founders to find out more about Celium and why its global launch represents such a promising future for the textile market.
Ethos: Can you tell us more about the development of Celium? How do you take waste from fruit and turn it into a functional, raw material?
Axel and Alexis Gómez Ortigoza: [It starts by feeding] bacteria with agro-industrial fruit waste. The continuous polymerization of glucose and fructose by the bacteria yields 16 square feet of cellulose sheets within a rapid six-day period. Then we transform the cellulose through a chromium-free and REACH, EPA, ZDHC compliant tanning process to craft Celium. For the transformation process, we rely on traditional animal leather tanning equipment such as tanning drums, embossing machines, and finishing lines.
Ethos: Does this mean Celium functions just like leather?
The Gómez Ortigozas: With its inherent biological composition, Celium possesses a character of its own. It refuses to be confined by the limitation of existing materials. Instead, it emerges as a new material category with self-defining aesthetics. Each piece is shaped by the forces of biology and has a unique essence that reflects the artistry found in nature.
Ethos: Ganni has already demonstrated that Celium can be transformed in many ways—from mini skirts to bags. As it launches onto the global market, how can the material be altered to suit designer preferences?
The Gómez Ortigozas: Due to its organic nature, cellulose undergoes a transformative tanning process, allowing us to tailor Celium’s key characteristics. Collaborating with brands, designers, and material engineers, we refine the fabric to their preferences, enhancing its physical and mechanical attributes such as color, scent, texture, and drape. Upon request, it can also be customized into uniform colors that emulate the look and feel of leather, all without compromising its organic touch, unlike other plastic or plant-based leather alternatives. Celium offers limitless possibilities, providing a fresh canvas for design innovation.
Ethos: It’s vital that the fashion industry moves toward more sustainable materials. Leather is, of course, particularly destructive. Why should brands pick Celium when they’re searching for environmentally friendly alternatives?
The Gómez Ortigozas: By utilizing agro-industrial fruit waste, Celium offers an innovative solution that repurposes this biomass, significantly reducing waste and decreasing the environmental consequences associated with organic waste disposal. This approach not only provides a sustainable alternative to conventional raw materials but also lessens the dependency on toxic materials, supporting the industry’s shift towards more responsible practices. Celium’s manufacturing process also leverages advanced biofabrication techniques that avoid the heavy environmental toll of traditional tanning and synthetic material production.
Ethos: How do you envision the role of alternative materials like Celium in shaping the future of fashion and other industries?
The Gómez Ortigozas: In the fashion industry, Celium introduces a new paradigm by providing designers with a versatile, customizable material that does not compromise on quality or environmental integrity. This development meets the growing consumer demand for sustainable products and encourages the adoption of new design philosophies that prioritize ecological considerations. But the role of Celium extends beyond fashion, offering broad applications that demonstrate how integrated, sustainable practices can reshape industry standards and contribute to a more responsible future.
Related on Ethos:
