Prada and Coach are leading a new wave of sustainable luxury with recycled materials in their collections.
Prada has unveiled its 2025 Re-Nylon collection in collaboration with National Geographic CreativeWorks. The launch features a series of four documentary films starring actors Benedict Cumberbatch and Sadie Sink. This initiative, which began in 2019, transforms plastic waste from oceans and landfills into regenerated nylon, demonstrating Prada’s commitment to environmental responsibility. The films offer an immersive look into the Re-Nylon initiative, highlighting the intricate process of converting discarded plastics into high-quality fashion pieces.
The first episode showcases Cumberbatch’s journey to Norway’s Lofoten Archipelago, situated within the Arctic Circle. Accompanied by environmental advocate Valentina Gottlieb and local expert Carl Höjman, Cumberbatch examines the pressing issue of plastic pollution in the Arctic. The episode sheds light on how ocean currents transport plastic debris and “ghost nets” — abandoned fishing nets — that contaminate shorelines and endanger marine life.
Sink’s episode takes her to Mexico, where she explores the challenges facing marine ecosystems. Joined by marine biologist Giovanni Chimienti and local National Geographic experts, Sink delves into the threats posed by pollution and climate change to these vital environments. Through her exploration, viewers gain insight into the delicate balance of marine life and the urgent need for conservation efforts.
Prada’s Re-Nylon collection is crafted from Econyl, a regenerated nylon yarn produced through recycling and purification processes. This innovative material is derived from plastic waste collected from oceans, landfills, and textile fiber waste worldwide. The resulting fabric maintains the same high quality as traditional nylon but is infinitely recyclable, embodying a circular approach to fashion.
Since its inception, the Re-Nylon initiative has significantly impacted Prada’s production practices. By 2021, the company had converted all of its virgin nylon production to regenerated nylon, setting a precedent for sustainability in the luxury fashion industry. This transition underscores Prada’s dedication to reducing its environmental footprint and promoting responsible consumption.
Complementing the Re-Nylon initiative is Prada’s Sea Beyond educational program, launched in 2019 in partnership with UNESCO’s Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission. This program aims to raise awareness about ocean preservation and sustainability among younger generations. The effort has reached more than 35,000 students across 56 countries with a deeper understanding of marine conservation. “The ultimate goal of the Sea Beyond educational program is to inspire young people, making them aware of the importance of the ocean and the need to preserve it,” Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group’s Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, said in a statement. “They are the real drivers of change, as they are able to integrate sustainability into their daily lives and positively influence their peers and families.” Prada donates one percent of proceeds from the Re-Nylon for Sea Beyond collection to support the Sea Beyond program.
Meanwhile, Coach is pursuing a similar path of sustainability and circular fashion through its strengthened partnership with Gen Phoenix, a leader in recycled leather fiber manufacturing. This collaboration includes a three-year purchase agreement for Gen Phoenix’s proprietary recycled leather material. In a move reflecting Prada’s focus on reducing waste, Coach plans to launch a new line of Coach Classic bags later this year, with a full-scale rollout scheduled for 2026. These bags will be made using Gen Phoenix’s fully-coated recycled leather material.
Tapestry Inc., Coach’s parent company, initially invested in Gen Phoenix during an $18 million funding round in March 2023, demonstrating a long-term commitment to sustainable material innovation. The partnership began bearing fruit in April 2023 when Coach debuted its Coachtopia sub-brand, featuring handbags with uncoated linings made from Gen Phoenix’s recycled leather fiber.
“What our partnership has done is allowed us to take our leather expertise, our understanding of the consumer and luxury, and add that to what Gen Phoenix does [in] sustainable, more industrial products. Taking this concept of going from airplane seats to luxury handbags is what our partnership created,” Todd Kahn, CEO of Coach, told WWD. “It started with Coachtopia, and we see a lot of applications over the years on using this new material as part of Coach’s future.”
Gen Phoenix has a history of producing recycled leather for mass transportation, including seating for buses and airplanes. Its process involves transforming unfinished scraps left over from the tanning process into usable materials. To meet growing demand, Gen Phoenix’s U.K.-based facility can produce up to 64.5 million square feet of recycled leather material annually. Tapestry has committed to purchasing 40 million square feet of this material over the next three years, ensuring scalability and consistent supply for Coach’s upcoming collections. The goal is to offer consumers luxury products that prioritize sustainability without compromising on quality or design.
Elyse Winer, Chief Marketing Officer of Gen Phoenix, highlighted the importance of integrating sustainability into luxury without adding a cost premium: “We’ve actually been truly integrated as one team, thinking about how can we take this material and add the body, the hand-feel, and the look to make sure that the luxury Coach consumer does not have to compromise for a more sustainable product.” Bags made with Gen Phoenix’s material will retail at a comparable price point to other Coach products, a deliberate move to make sustainable options accessible. “The green premium is a fiction, and people want it, but they don’t want to pay more for it,” Kahn remarked.
Coach is also investing in storytelling and marketing efforts to spotlight its use of recycled leather and amplify its sustainability credentials. “You know, if a tree falls in the forest and no one’s around to hear, it doesn’t make a sound. So, we want to make a big sound — to call it out and really explain and market and storytell around the attributes of the product for the consumer—at the right time,” said Kahn. This narrative approach mirrors Prada’s focus on education through the Sea Beyond program, further underscoring how luxury brands are embracing sustainability not just in materials but also in consumer engagement.
Beyond product launches, Coach is working to close the loop in its production processes. The brand will contribute goods from its in-house (Re)Loved exchange program to Gen Phoenix’s supply chain, creating a fully circular model. This move echoes Prada’s commitment to circularity through its Econyl-based Re-Nylon collection.
“What we’re trying to accomplish is something at scale, not a niche idea,” Kahn said. “We knew through our own consumer insight and research that the consumer loves sustainability [but] to put a big premium on it will not create anything at scale, which is what’s so important to us.”
Related on Ethos:
