Today’s ‘It Girl’ Is a Brand and She’s Not Breaking Rules, She’s Reinforcing Them

Share

Once the embodiment of effortless allure, today’s It Girl is an engine of content and consumption. Her rise has coincided with a fast fashion boom that’s accelerating climate and cultural collapse, trading mystique for marketing and scarcity for scrollability.

It was long the stuff of Carrie Bradshaw fashion folklore — enviable style, grit, and confidence wrapped in relatable struggles, insecurities, indecision. But today’s It Girl no longer defines that je ne sais quoi. It has become a manufactured phenomenon. Her ascent, once a slow burn through underground scenes or aristocratic eccentricity, now unfolds in high-definition, algorithmic precision. She is less icon than interface, a pixel-perfect reflection of marketing budgets and brand partnerships. No longer a creature of mystery, today’s It Girl arrives with PR seeding schedules, affiliate deals, and a bio linking to her Amazon storefront.

And while her reach spans continents in seconds, her mystique — once her most seductive quality — has all but vanished. The effortless allure of Winona Ryder in moth-bitten sweaters or Kate Moss in muddy Wellies has been replaced by a glossy uniform of drop-shoulder blazers, ballet flats, and contour techniques borrowed from a Kardashian-Jenner masterclass. Today’s It Girl is always on-brand because she is the brand.

“Once upon a time, an ‘It Girl’ was simply a girl you wanted to be,” writes Riley Cooper. “She exuded an unquantifiable charm, the kind that couldn’t be bottled, bought, or sold. Her appeal was magnetic and untouchable – she was effortlessly cool. But today, the formula for becoming an It Girl has been engineered and packaged into a sort of ‘How to Woman’ manual, filled with strategies for success, largely defined by consumerism.”

Hailey Bieber carries a drink and a shopping bag.
Hailey Bieber carries a drink and a shopping bag | Courtesy

But the cost of that consistency is not just aesthetic. It is planetary.

A 2023 report by the United Nations Environment Programme estimates that the fashion industry is responsible for up to ten percent of global carbon emissions — more than the combined output of all international flights and maritime shipping. The sector also contributes significantly to water pollution, biodiversity loss, and landfill overflow. As of 2024, the Global Fashion Agenda reports that the apparel industry consumes 215 trillion liters of water each year and generates more than 92 million tons of textile waste, much of which is overflowing into countries like Ghana, and leading to disasters like the recent Kantamanto Market Fire.

According to a 2024 survey, nearly 70 percent of Gen Z consumers discovered new products or brands through social media influencers. This discovery often leads to immediate purchase: More than half admitted to wearing outfits only once before discarding or reselling them. That cycle of purchase-performance-purge is no longer a side effect of digital fame — it is the business model.

TikTok is the engine powering this churn. Hashtags like #GRWM (get ready with me) and #haul have become standard fare, with billions of cumulative views. The platform’s fashion tag had surpassed 75 billion views as of early 2025, reports The New York Times, with content creation outpacing consumption in a dizzying loop. Every outfit is filmed, filtered, and forgotten by the algorithm within hours.

Alexa Chung takes a photo of a bag.
Alexa Chung will open her closet on Vinted next month | Courtesy

Unlike today’s panoply of It Girls, their predecessors — women like Jane Birkin, Princess Diana, Chloë Sevigny, and even Alexa Chung — who sparked trends by wearing what felt authentic to them, today’s It Girl trades authenticity for optimization. Her wardrobe is designed for scrolls, not seasons. Her individuality is flattened by virality. Even secondhand platforms that once promised refuge from this cycle, like Depop and Poshmark, are now overrun by influencers reselling PR packages and barely-worn pieces at inflated prices.

This conforming of style into content brings both ecological and cultural consequences. Synthetic fibers such as polyester, which make up more than 60 percent of all clothing produced globally, are central to fast fashion’s acceleration. These materials, while cheap and stretch-friendly, do not biodegrade. Instead, they shed microplastics with every wash — particles that now contaminate oceans, Arctic snow, and even human placentas. Research published earlier this year found, on average, “a spoon’s worth” of plastic in human brains.

Fashion’s growing dependence on these materials means that the modern It Girl is not just influencing trends — she is contributing to environmental collapse and human rights issues. “Overproduction rides on the back of the most vulnerable people along the fast fashion supply chain, who are usually from the Global South,” Sammy Oteng, Senior Community Engagement Manager, The Or Foundation, told Vogue. “In Ghana, where I’m from, the influx of these garments overshadows the good, culturally driven work that Kantamanto — the largest reuse and upcycle economy — does. It is also a culprit in the decline of local textile industries and has eroded the quality and sentimental value people place on garments. This is simply because fast fashion positions garments as disposable. A decrease in garment production amounts, coupled with Globally Accountable Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) to provide the investment necessary to develop localized circularity and revitalize the local textiles industry, is a way forward.”

A 2021 report from Public Eye revealed that Shein garment workers in Guangzhou were clocking in 75-hour work weeks, with little oversight and minimal safety protocols. Greenpeace has repeatedly criticized the brand for its lack of transparency, particularly around the use of toxic chemicals in its supply chain. Yet Shein continues to dominate influencer content across platforms, its cut-out tops and stretchy cargos flooding the grid at a dizzying rate.

And still, the It Girl persists. Not in spite of this damage — but often because of it. She is aspirational by design. Her aesthetic is digestible, repeatable, and monetized. Every mirror selfie links to LTK. Every street-style snap is part of a broader affiliate ecosystem. Even fashion weeks, once bastions of editorial storytelling and artistic risk, now resemble influencer reunions — rows of sameness styled by stylists, sponsored by brands.

Chloe Sevigny on a rooftop.
The early 2000s “It Girl” Chloe Sevigny | Courtesy Lizzi Bougatsos for Rizzoli

The original It Girl — Clara Bow — emerged in the 1920s as an avatar of modernity, her charm unteachable and her fame unrepeatable. She had “It” — a rare fusion of eroticism and irreverence. Later, the term became shorthand for an ineffable quality: Bianca Jagger on a white horse at Studio 54, Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy in slip dresses and satin ballet flats, Chloë Sevigny in vintage Helmut Lang and red lipstick. These women didn’t just trend — they transcended.

But today, transcendence is beside the point. The scarcity once attached to the term has dissolved. What remains is omnipresence, packaged and pushed to market. The illusion of individuality is cultivated through minor variations on a theme — an almond-shaped manicure here, a ribbon-tied ponytail there — but the core aesthetic is algorithmic.

Still, not all hope is lost. A growing faction of influencers, designers, and fashion critics are fighting back — advocating for slow fashion, rewearing outfits, and refusing brand partnerships that clash with their ethics. Creators like Venetia La Manna, Kristen Leo, and Aditi Mayer are cultivating followings rooted not in aesthetic maximalism but in transparency, circularity, and climate justice.

Brands like Another Tomorrow, Ganni, and Stella McCartney are reimagining luxury as responsibility. Instead of chasing trends, they build wardrobes around quality, longevity, and traceability. Some, like House of Dagmar, have adopted Environmental Profit and Loss accounting to measure their real-time impact. The resale market is also adapting: popular secondhand platform Vestiaire Collective has banned fast fashion listings entirely, a bold move that signals a redefinition of value.

Even tech — the muse’s muse — is catching up. Algorithms are being trained to identify greenwashing. Apps like Good On You and Renoon are helping consumers decipher what’s truly ethical. There is a glimmer of a future where influence is measured not just by likes, but by impact. But for now, the reigning It Girl remains a paradox. She sells individuality in bulk. She moves product in seconds. Her reach is limitless. Her legacy, less so.

Related on Ethos:

Related

Ralph Lauren Curates the USPS Stamps for the Nation’s 250th: ‘I Love America’

Ralph Lauren, born in the Bronx to a family that owned little more than the American Dream, has been selected by the U.S. Postal Service to curate thirteen commemorative stamps defining what America looks like at 250.

Can Billie Eilish Make Vegan Cool Again?

Billie Eilish is doubling down on veganism just as Beyond Meat teeters, celebrity vegans defect, and fine dining retreats from plants. Can she pull off what Joaquin Phoenix, Miley Cyrus, and the Impossible Burger couldn't?

The 2026 Met Gala Raised $42 Million, But the Ball Across Town Raised the Stakes

The 2026 Met Gala raised a record $42 million — and a lot of questions. With Jeff Bezos and Lauren Sánchez Bezos as lead sponsors, a labor organizer tackled outside, and a rival ball in the Meatpacking District, fashion's biggest night forced a long-overdue reckoning.

‘The Devil Wears Prada 2’ Cast Says Skip the Crocs: These Sustainable Alternatives Pass the Test

The cast of The Devil Wears Prada 2 had strong feelings about Crocs — and they weren't kind. Here are the sustainable, comfortable slip-ons worth wearing instead.

The 2026 Met Gala’s Best Looks Were Built From Someone Else’s Wardrobe

At the 2026 Met Gala, the most inventive looks of the night — from Sabrina Carpenter's Dior gown made of Audrey Hepburn film strips to SZA's eBay-sourced Bode creation — proved that sourcing is part of the artistry.