Vollebak’s Lab-Grown collection, created in partnership with Spiber, showcases Brewed Protein fiber, a sustainable biomaterial that redefines fashion through innovation.
Clothing has long been a canvas for innovation, but few brands push the limits of material science like Vollebak. Known for its high-tech, performance-focused apparel, Vollebak has set its sights on sustainability with its latest release: the Lab-Grown collection. This groundbreaking line features garments crafted from Brewed Protein fiber, a biomaterial developed in collaboration with Japanese biotechnology pioneer Spiber.
Vollebak’s approach to sustainable innovation has earned it a reputation as a leader in high-performance apparel, and extends its position with the Lab-Grown collection. The capsule, which includes a sweater, scarf, and beanie, combines Brewed Protein fiber with Merino wool for garments that are thermoregulating, fast-drying, and odor-resistant. Fully reversible, the pieces also showcase intricate honeycomb patterns inspired by their lab-grown origins.
Spiber’s Brewed Protein
Spiber’s innovation journey began in a Tokyo university laboratory more than 20 years ago, where bioinformatics students Kazuhide Sekiyama and Junichi Sugahara set out to replicate the properties of spider silk. Revered for its exceptional strength and elasticity, spider silk served as the inspiration for what would become Brewed Protein fiber. By 2015, the team had developed a new protein through molecular engineering, transforming it into a fiber with properties unlike anything else on the planet.
The production process for Brewed Protein fiber reads like a page from a science fiction novel. Spiber scientists start by selecting DNA sequences from a vast genetic database of animals and insects, including sheep, squid, and spiders. These DNA sequences are inserted into microbes, programming them to produce protein molecules during fermentation. Once fermented, the protein polymer is purified, dried, and extruded into ultra-fine fibers, ready to be spun into fabric. This revolutionary approach enables the creation of textiles that mimic and even surpass natural materials in strength, durability, and softness.
One of the most compelling aspects of Brewed Protein fiber is its minimal environmental impact. According to Spiber, producing Brewed Protein emits 79 percent fewer greenhouse gases and requires 97 percent less land and water compared to traditional fibers like cashmere. This drastic reduction in resource consumption positions the Lab-Grown collection as a tangible solution to some of fashion’s most pressing sustainability challenges. Spiber’s data underscores the potential of biomaterials to replace petroleum-based plastics, plant-based fibers, and animal-derived textiles, creating a future where performance and environmental responsibility coexist seamlessly.
In October, Spiber continued its collaboration with Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia, a distinguished Italian mill specializing in premium wool spinning. This partnership has led to the development of a yarn blend composed of 30 percent Brewed Protein fiber and 70 percent Responsible Wool Standard merino wool, suitable for both knitting and weaving applications. Also in October, British luxury label Burberry became the first luxury brand to introduce products made with Spiber’s Brewed Protein fiber, launching the B Shield Scarf — a blend of 62 percent wool, 8 percent cashmere, and 30 percent Brewed Protein.
In September, Spiber announced the continuation of its partnership with Consinee Group, a global leader in premium yarns for luxury knitwear and woven garments. This collaboration has resulted in innovative yarns containing between 30 to 100 percent Brewed Protein fiber, now available for knitwear applications.
Over the summer, Spiber unveiled partnerships with Italian mills Marzotto, RD Gruppo Florence, and Filatura Papi Fabio. These collaborations aim to integrate Brewed Protein fibers into high-end, sustainable luxury materials, with products expected to be available from Autumn/Winter 2024. Additionally, in January, Spiber launched the biosphere circulation project, focusing on transforming end-of-use textiles and agricultural byproducts
Vollebak Lab-Grown
The Lab-Grown collection reflects a vision of fashion that prioritizes technological innovation and environmental stewardship. Vollebak co-founder Steve Tidball has described these types of innovations as “the future of clothing” and a bold step toward a world where science-driven materials replace traditional options.
The collection also challenges conventional definitions of luxury by focusing on the story behind the fabric rather than just the final product. The honeycomb design, for instance, symbolizes the lab-grown origins of the material, merging aesthetics with function and environmental awareness.
Vollebak’s Lab-Grown sweater is priced at £495 ($595), with the scarf and beanie available for £195 ($245) each.
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