In its 2023 Brand Engagement in Next-Gen Materials report, the Material Innovation Initiative spotlights transformative collaborations across the fashion, home goods, and automotive sectors.
Last year saw more next-gen companies open factory doors and take production orders than ever, according to the new report from The Material Innovation Initiative (MII), a nonprofit think tank. “We saw an explosion of collaborations between innovators working with both large and small brands around the globe,” Thomasine Dolan Dow Director of Materials Innovation & Design at MII wrote in the report’s foreword. Brands including Stella McCartney, Tory Burch, Mara Hoffmann, Gucci, and Ganni led the sector through innovations and high-profile launches — all pushing the envelope in the pursuit of environmentally preferred, animal-free textiles.
Nicole Rawling, CEO and Co-Founder of Material Innovation Initiative, praised the industry’s adoption of sustainable practices, particularly Gucci for its investment in its first Horsebit bag made primarily from Demetra leather, which it showcased with help from Billie Eilish. “We’re thrilled to see so many top brands engaging with next-generation materials,” Rawling said in a statement. “I was particularly excited to see Gucci put so much investment and the weight of their name behind their next-gen Demetra leather. Bringing this vision seems like a great way to both test and realign their products to be more sustainable whilst also addressing significant industry supply chain transparency issues by owning more of their supply chain.”
MMI aims to accelerate the development of high-performance, environmentally preferred, and animal-free materials. By fostering connections, sharing knowledge, and conducting research, the organization seeks to replace traditional and synthetic materials like silk, wool, down, fur, and leather with next-gen alternatives. This initiative is critical in cultivating a global market for sustainable materials across various industries, emphasizing the need for products that demand less from the planet, animals, and people at every production stage.
Other notable 2023 partnerships and innovations included Tory Burch unveiling an updated version of the Ella Bio Tote by incorporating Modern Meadow’s Bio-Alloy, a decision heavily influenced by the impressive color capabilities of Modern Meadow during the sampling phase, highlighting the brand’s dedication to meeting consumer desires for vibrant, eco-friendly options.
Keel Labs, NFW, MycoWorks, and Ecovative, all announced they are now fully commercial and open for collaborations, marking a pivotal moment for the availability of sustainable materials including plastic-free and mycelium-based textiles. Circ and Mara Hoffman introduced a dress that replicated the look and feel of silk and also emphasized the potential for circular textiles and fashion, setting a new standard for sustainable fashion design. The fashion world saw an increase in environmentally friendly red carpet statements, with designers like Zac Posen and Monique Lhuiller partnering with Lenzing to spotlight sustainable glamour, showcasing the luxury and appeal of next-gen textiles like Tencel and Modal. Ganni consistently embraced sustainable materials throughout the year as part of its sustainability commitments, including the debut of the first jacket made from Polybion’s bacteria-based leather.
Stella McCartney propped up the sector with a Sustainable Materials Market during PFW and COP28, where she shared fiber and material innovations from more than 20 manufacturers. “I’m here at COP28 to represent the world of fashion,” the designer said at the event, calling the fashion industry “one of the most harmful.”
The fashion industry produces about ten percent of total global greenhouse gas emissions. It’s also a leading producer of wastewater and used clothing makes up about eight percent of landfill waste. Next-gen materials that are biodegradable or made from discarded clothing could significantly help to reduce the industry’s footprint.
Automotive interiors are set for a green makeover, too, as NFW and Sage Automotive, a leading automotive interior material manufacturer, hint at a future where car seats are made from plant-based materials rather than plastic, promising a significant shift toward sustainability in the automotive industry. BMW has already begun exploring plant leather in collaboration with Desserto’s cactus leather, and Fisker’s Ocean interiors are made predominantly from upcycled materials including Alcantara, Ultrasuede, FeelTek, EcoFabric, and recycled carpeting, all made from recycled plastic bottles and other recycled polymers.
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