Following its 2019 swimwear debut featuring regenerative nylon Econyl, Reformation, the Los Angeles-based celeb-loved sustainable fashion label, has announced the relaunch of its swimwear line, using sustainable fabric Evo by Fulgar, derived from renewable castor oil beans.
The relaunch of swimwear represents Reformation’s renewed foray into the category, which is ripe with innovators. It also reflects a notable evolution from the label’s initial swimwear venture in 2019. Hali Borenstein, Reformation’s CEO, highlighted the move as part of the brand’s journey toward greater sustainability. “Our tag line at the time was, ‘This swimsuit is not sustainable enough,’ and we talked a lot about how we’re really committed to making progress,” she said in a statement. She acknowledged Econyl as the best option available at the time but admitted, “It just wasn’t really as sustainable as we wanted it to be.”
Kathleen Talbot, Reformation’s Chief Sustainability Officer, pointed out the limitations of previous materials in addressing environmental concerns, particularly around microplastic and microfiber shedding. “It still didn’t address things like microplastic and microfiber shedding, and it still wasn’t in line with our idea of how do we actually just remove plastics from ready-to-wear categories where we don’t think we need to be wearing plastic,” she explained. This acknowledgment led Reformation to take a step back from the sector while it sought a material that would not only meet but surpass its stringent sustainability criteria.
The search culminated in the adoption of Evo by Fulgar. The novel fiber isn’t new; it’s been used by labels including Pangaia and Luxury Jersey, among others. But it’s still a relatively small player in the sustainable textiles market. Reformation’s adoption of Evo may help bring it more widespread recognition. Talbot emphasized the importance of the switch. “It feels like a really good start where we can introduce a plastic-free swim alternative on the market and do it at scale, not just a one-time capsule.” This initiative is part of Reformation’s broader ambition to achieve carbon positivity by 2025 and to establish itself as a circular fashion brand by 2030, with the elimination of virgin synthetics being a key objective.
What is Evo by Fulgar?
Evo by Fulgar yarn is made from castor oil — the castor plant is a resource that’s both renewable and sustainable. According to Fulgar, castor is an underutilized material source in the fashion industry’s bid to become more sustainable. Castor grows spontaneously in arid regions and does not require large amounts of water. It also doesn’t compete with crops grown for food. The material also holds up to conventional fibers, says Fulgar. Italian textile company Brugnoli, a supplier for Lycra, pecializes in elastic knit fabrics, including swimwear, first announced a partnership with Fulgar and its Evo textile in 2015. Evo performs similar to nylon, but without the need for any plastic-based materials. It has been used in sportswear, hosiery, and, now, swimwear. The high-performance quick-drying material is lightweight, stretchable, and breathable.
The material isn’t a perfect solution, though. Reformation notes the material can’t be recycled in current material recycling facilities. But the company is working on it. “That [circularity] commitment is really keeping us accountable to considering the end of life and the recyclability of new categories,” Talbot said. Borenstein highlighted the dual benefits of the material, noting, “This actually will support both of [the targets],” and acknowledged that material composition is a primary factor in the company’s carbon footprint, more so than transportation.
Reformation’s new swim collection comes after the label made headlines with its recent advertising campaign featuring former White House intern, Monica Lewinsky. Borenstein praised Lewinsky’s contributions, saying, “The work that she’s done to really get her voice out there and to make a difference, especially with online behavior, is really unique.” She added, “So it was about time. Monica deserved that moment.”
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