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Oils and serums? What exactly is the difference? And which ones are the best ones to try?
Oils and serums both typically arrive in small, amber glass bottles with pipettes, and their formulas look deceptively similar — so the confusion is understandable. But they do serve distinct purposes in a skincare routine, and knowing which does what makes building one considerably easier. The main distinguishing factor, it turns out, comes down to molecular weight.
What face oils actually do
You’ve probably heard of jojoba oil, for example, or rosehip oil. For the most part, these oils are used to provide moisture to the skin, and they also help to create a barrier for the skin, keeping hydration in. “The oils inherently have emollient benefits, so these products tend to be moisturizing,” Dr. Joshua Zeichner, M.D., a New York City-based board-certified dermatologist, told Bustle. This means a well-chosen face oil can, in many cases, stand in for your daily moisturizer entirely. Most formulas blend botanical oils with hydrating properties: jojoba, hempseed, apricot, and evening primrose are among the most common. “Face oils are a mix of heavy and light fatty acids that create a barrier on the skin and help trap moisture and prevent water loss,” said Dr. Purvisha Patel, M.D., board-certified dermatologist and founder of Visha Skincare. That barrier function is the core of what a face oil does — it seals hydration in rather than adding it. “A face oil is more of an occlusive product and will trap the serum on the skin,” Patel added.
The benefits extend beyond moisture. Some oils have more antioxidant properties, like evening primrose, which may add certain benefits. What you won’t find in face oils are water-based ingredients like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or pure vitamin C. “You won’t find many water-based ingredients like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and pure vitamin C in these products,” Zeichner said — they aren’t compatible with an oil base, and tend to be more stable and effective in a serum format.
What serums do differently
Serums operate on a different level entirely. “A serum would be more of an aqueous solution, so it’s inherently lighter, whereas with a face oil, the main component is the oil itself,” Dr. Anthony Rossi, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist. explained to Bustle. Most serums are water-based, and that lighter molecular weight is what allows them to absorb quickly and deliver ingredients deeper into the skin. “Think of your serum as your supercharged skin care product,” said Zeichner, noting that the benefit “depends on what the active ingredient is” — vitamin C for brightening, niacinamide for pigmentation, hyaluronic acid for plumping, retinol for cell turnover, salicylic acid for breakouts. “A serum is a very versatile product packed with a high concentration of active ingredients,” added Dr. Peterson Pierre, M.D., a Los Angeles-based board-certified dermatologist.
How to layer them — and when to stop
Both products can be used together, as long as the order is right. The serum would go on first. Allow that to fully dry, then apply the oil after. Lighter formulas need unobstructed access to skin first; the oil applied last creates the occlusive seal that holds everything in. Patel also recommends reserving face oil for the evening routine, since its occlusive properties can interfere with sunscreen absorption in the morning.
One thing to watch: overloading the routine. “Sometimes people are trying to do too much with their skin care routines,” Rossi says. “You might find duplicate ingredients between your serum and face oil, so you want to make sure you’re not irritating the skin too much.” Layering multiple actives — retinol, chemical exfoliants — can sensitize skin over time, leading to irritation or breakouts. For most people, a targeted serum and a nourishing oil, used in that order, is more than enough.
The best clean serums and oils
You can use oils and serums together, or you can choose just one, depending on your individual needs and preferences. But to help you decide on the best products for each, check out some of our favorites below.
Kora Organics Noni Glow Face Oil
Miranda Kerr’s Kora Organics is a haven for potent, high-performance formulas made with natural ingredients. This lightweight Noni Glow Face Oil, for example, contains noni fruit extract (hence the name), which is a powerful source of vitamins C and A. It also contains rosehip oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, pomegranate oil, and sea buckthorn oil, too. All work together to nourish, brighten, smooth, and soften your skin.
Kypris Beauty Elixir I
This lightweight beauty oil is designed to deliver deep hydration while promoting a radiant, healthy-looking complexion. Infused with bio-identical CoQ10, Vitamin C Ester, and sustainably sourced botanicals like Bulgarian rose essential oil, it helps soothe dryness and improve the appearance of sun-damaged skin.
Founded by Chase Polan, Kypris is built on the philosophy that beauty is a birthright. The brand combines the power of nature with advanced skincare science, offering wildcrafted, nutrient-rich formulas that elevate everyday self-care into a luxurious ritual.
Sunday Riley C.E.O Glow
This face oil from Sunday Riley contains a few different botanical oils, including moisturizing and vitamin-rich cranberry seed oil, antioxidant-packed pomegranate seed oil, and softening jojoba oil. Its potent blend of oil-soluble vitamin C and turmeric also helps to brighten and rejuvenate skin.
Aesop Fabulous Face Oil
Juniper berries, ylang-ylang, and jasmine petals are the key ingredients in this Fabulous Face Oil from Aesop. The lightweight, floral formula will help to nourish and restore your skin, leaving your skin looking and feeling softer and smoother than ever. This face oil is ideal for those with normal, combination, congested, or dull skin, notes the brand.
The Outset Firming Vegan Collagen Prep Serum
Collagen is used in skincare to promote firmer skin, but it’s usually not vegan, because it is derived from animal bones and connective tissue. But this serum from Scarlett Johannsen’s brand The Outset is a little different, as it contains its own animal-free “clean alternative” to the ingredient. It also contains ingredients like Mexican arnica flower extract, which is soothing and hydrating, vitamin-rich black quinoa, and brightening brassica napus seedcake extract (also known as rapeseed extract).
Glossier Futuredew
This formula from Glossier is actually a serum-oil hybrid, meaning it combines the best of the two skincare products into one (which not only saves you money, but also valuable shelf space). It’s packed with super hydrating and brightening ingredients, including squalane derived from sugarcane and fruit extract, and four different oils: jojoba, grape seed, evening primrose, and rosehip.
Beau Domaine The Serum
This potent anti-aging serum from Brad Pitt’s Beau Domaine is infused with a high concentration of active ingredients designed to visibly revitalize the complexion — firming, smoothing, and plumping not just the face, but also the neck, décolleté, and the often-overlooked eye contour. Just two drops are enough to deliver results, thanks to a fragrance-free formula that absorbs effortlessly without any residue. Seamlessly integrating into any skincare routine, it’s a minimalist’s dream with maximum impact. For an elevated ritual, pair it with the brand’s equally opulent moisturizer from its luxury cosmetics collection.
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All products featured on Ethos have been independently selected by our editorial team.
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